Evaluating American sushi restaurants is difficult. “Authenticity” is out of the question: I can name the good, authentic Japanese sushi restaurants in this country on two hands, and none of them are in this state or the states bordering it. At the same time, quite a bit of American sushi tastes good. Really good. Enough to make me drive to Jackson on a very regular basis in order to indulge my cravings for deep-fried goodness. Aka Sushi is a stellar example of what an American sushi restaurant should look like: it understands that it is in no way authentic, yet the service is stellar.
First, let’s be clear on one thing: sushi, whether in Japan or the United States, is not designed to be a social experience. While partaking in it with another person or two is entirely acceptable, you have come for the sushi, not the conversation. Aka pulls this off deftly. Its interior is miniscule and its décor post-modern; it oozes a sense of individuality and efficiency. The fact that they keep their line of waiting customers (and indeed, there is a line) within feet of your table also emphasizes the focus on the food.
Before we get to the food, a quick comment on the service: if it is packed, you will not receive much attention. This is not due to the fact that the waitresses are rude –– they are quite kind and helpful –– merely to the lack of them. While it is understandable that a sushi restaurant would be run on a tight budget in Jackson, I don’t like to wait ten minutes for a check or to order a dessert, and I shouldn’t have to.
The food, though, is all positive. Their Nigiri sushi, the raw fish over rice originating in Japan, is incredibly fresh and flavorful. I have eaten at sushi and seafood restaurants throughout the Midwest and none, I repeat none, have fish this fresh, making me suspicious that they have some strange deal with Satan over at Aka. Get the red snapper and the yellowtail, while these don’t have the fat of the tuna, their freshness allows them a dynamic flavor for the price.
Their appetizers are also surprisingly delicious. The edamame is always a perfect balance of warmth and salt, and it offers a welcome entry into the meal. If you are feeling more adventurous, get the tako-su, an octopus and seaweed salad. The cool saltiness of the brine and tosazu sauce bring a wonderful umame flavor to the table.
When venturing into the world of sushi rolls, one must be willing to abandon all pretense of authenticity. Sushi rolls are almost entirely an American creation, and while you can sometimes find them in Japan, they are nothing like the giant gastropod-esque creations served here. Nevertheless, the sushi rolls at Aka are quite good and they should be indulged in. Take note of the “Rolls” section of the menu next to the Nigiri. While basic, these rolls are very good for the price. I particularly appreciate the Special California or the Spicy Tuna. Also, do not bypass the “Tempura Roll” section. It is considerably cheaper than the Special Rolls, but it offers much of the same flavor and fried deliciousness. I recommend the Spicy Salmon.
The Special Rolls exist on an entirely separate level. They exemplify America’s eating problems and lack of subtlety. In some ways, though, this is not a bad thing. I myself often order the ironically entitled Las Vegas roll, a deep-fried leviathan built of cream cheese and four different types of fish. While delicious, I would not spend your entire budget here. The menu has much to provide outside of it.
Skip the beer at Aka. In fact, skip the beer at any Japanese restaurant whether in Japan or not. Japanese beers are disgusting, lagered creations which are the product of commercialization and the fact that most Japanese lack the proper enzyme to digest large amounts of alcohol. Do try the sake, though, if you have never had it. For the quality, it is affordable and a good introduction. On a side note, if you ever see a sake that is cheaper and served cold, run. Low quality sake is chilled in order to mask bad flavors.
Aka is a gem, particularly for this area. While it may not embody haute cuisine, its prices and freshness make for a great experience. Dinner for two for around twenty dollars is entirely doable.
