Azarian holds a “Coop’s Smoked Brisket Bowl.”
Adriana Azarian | The Collegian
A gas station restaurant might provoke skepticism and low expectations. Turns out, Cooper’s is just what Hillsdale needs.
Located behind the Marathon Gas Station on W. Carleton Road, Cooper’s opened Oct. 27. It serves hearty American fare, from rice bowls to burgers and wings to fries. Customers order at the front and are served at their tables in less than 10 minutes.
In terms of food quality, efficiency, and restaurant atmosphere, Cooper’s falls between fast food and a typical sit-down restaurant — I’d put it on par with a Chipotle or Panera. It’s the sort of place you go to when you’re short on time, looking for takeout, or simply craving a good burger or sandwich.
The small space features pictures of Hillsdale’s campus and Charger athletic gear on the walls. In the background plays a 2010s party music playlist, perhaps a bit too loud to enjoy conversation, but appropriate for a spot intended for quick bites.
Despite the gas station surroundings, the restaurant is actually quite clean.
In an effort to get a representative sample of the menu, I ordered the “Coop’s Smoked Brisket Bowl,” “Smash OG Burger,” and a side of fries (I brought a friend to assist me with this feat). The portions were rather large and worth the price — entrees are about $9 to $15.
The brisket bowl comes with seasoned rice, brisket, barbecue sauce, coleslaw, and Cooper’s sauce, similar to a smoky chipotle sauce. Overall the flavors were good, though the barbecue sauce and coleslaw together were slightly sweet for my personal taste. The flavor of the meat and sauce provided a savory contrast, but the rice was slightly undercooked. I would give it a 7.5 out of 10 — would get it again, but I’d also be open to trying their other bowls.
The burger, though less complex flavor-wise, was hands-down the best burger I’ve had in Hillsdale. It was juicy and came with cheese, caramelized onions, and homemade sauce on a brioche bun. Though it was a smash burger with a single patty, it had a substantial patty and a good ratio of meat to bread, though customers can order a double patty.
In the words of my friend and dining partner senior Annika Monson, “It’s not the kind of burger that has a lot of fresh vegetables, but it is warm and hearty, so if that is a burger that you’re looking for, this could be a really good option.”
Overall, I’d give their burger a 9 out of 10 — will definitely go back next time I’m craving a burger.
Cooper’s serves both regular and curly fries. I’m a purist, so I went with the regular fries. They were just salty enough and came hot and crispy. Nothing mindblowing, just everything I could have expected from a french fry. It was enough for one person, but a little chintzy if you want to share. Solid 7 out of 10.
The menu consists of stick-to-your-ribs kind of food. If you’re looking for fresh produce or light fare, this is not the place. It may not be a first date spot, but it’s good for the long-term couple comfortable eating messy food together.
Now, disclaimer, I’m a very short woman. I thought the portions were generous, but I’ve also seen how much some of you male athletes eat. Perhaps a grown man’s perspective can offer some alternative insight.
Just before I left, I spotted Associate Dean of Men Jeffery “Chief” Rogers ordering Cooper’s loaded brisket bowl for takeout.
“I’ll admit, I was a little apprehensive about gas station food, but I’m willing to try anything once,” Rogers said. “Would I go back? Probably. The serving size doesn’t compare to Qdoba, Chipotle, or Pita Way; they give much more, but the food was solid. Honestly, I could’ve had three bowls though… just saying.”
