Chef Ezra Bertakis brings sushi experience to Hillsdale

Home City News Chef Ezra Bertakis brings sushi experience to Hillsdale
Chef Ezra Bertakis brings sushi experience to Hillsdale
Johnny T’s offers a spicy crab roll. Collegian | Tracy Wilson

Chef Ezra Bertakis is bringing years of culinary experience, a passion for quality sushi, and homegrown organic produce to Hillsdale.

Originally from Hillsdale, Bertakis worked under Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto in New York after training at the Florida Culinary Institute. After moving back to Michigan in 2011, Bertakis ran several restaurants in Detroit as executive sushi chef before returning to the Hillsdale area. 

“I’ve loved the area my whole life,” Bertakis said. “Just the historic value of Hillsdale and the quality of the people.”

Before Johnny T’s began offering sushi in 2020, Bertakis worked on his farm and business Chef’s Way Organic Farms. While he enjoyed the fast-paced restaurant industry in Florida and New York, Bertakis said he now appreciates the independence of operating his own farm.

“It was definitely an experience, but I’d rather be farming because in that industry you just don’t see your family,” Bertakis said. “When I was working at my last restaurant before I retired from that industry I was working 10 a.m. to midnight every day, and that’s what it takes when you’re at that level. I’d rather invest in the farm; I see my kids every day now and my wife and I work together, it’s just absolutely fantastic.”

Contrasting with the traditional, classic recipes he used in New York and Florida, Bertakis said the unique community of Hillsdale allows him to experiment and adapt to the community’s taste.

“I’ve been able to put in a twist of Americanizing the sushi menu and I’m bringing in more flavors,” he said.

Johnny T’s owner Rick Tropiano said he is grateful for Bertakis’ experience and everything that he brings to the community.

“Chef Ezra is an amazing person and very hard worker; his chef and organic farming skills set standards higher than I have ever seen and his desire to be perfect in these disciplines is remarkable,” Tropiano said. “The community is very fortunate to have such a chef locally.”

Bertakis noted the community in Hillsdale has varying levels of experience with sushi, which he feels adds to the impressive variety of options at Johnny T’s.

“Nobody mixes sushi and comfort food at all,” Bertakis said. “But it’s spectacular because it touches every level for everybody. I know that I can cater to the taste buds of the experienced fish eater or the person who hasn’t had as much exposure.”

In addition to his professional skill, Bertakis said his passion for quality products and sushi dovetails with his passion for organic farming.

“As a chef I was always looking for the best, most high-quality food,” Bertakis said. “and that presented an opportunity where I asked myself, ‘If I can’t find it, why don’t I grow it?’”

Chef’s Way Organic is a certified organic farm, so Bertakis often uses his fresh produce in his work at Johnny T’s.

“I can actually utilize my own organic produce and things that I’m growing fresh and seasonally,” he said. “Wherever I can, I supplement what I have.”

Bertakis prepares sushi at Johnny T’s on Wednesday nights in an open presentation setup so that guests can enjoy the experience and gain a sense of appreciation for how the sushi is prepared. 

In addition, the open preparation of sushi shows customers the quality of food and the precision of skill required. 

“It shows the cleanliness and the consistency and the quality o the fish,” Bertakis said. “It shows that I don’t save or freeze anything, I buy it fresh every single week. When you go to bigger places, they’re forced to order in bulk and they have to freeze.”

Bertakis said that his attention to the quality of his products started when he trained under Iron Chef Morimoto at his personal restaurant.

“He brought in a lot of consistency in regards to quality and using the best products,” Bertakis said. “Working with someone at that level shows a drive and commitment to the industry that is just different. It was an experience that helped drive me into becoming a better chef.”

Bertakis uses his industry relationships to get seafood from the same sources he used at top restaurants in Florida and New York. 

“All of my products are the same products that I got in New York, South Florida, and Detroit. We order the best and we’re able to supply high-quality products,” Bertakis said. “So far everyone who comes in just raves about it.”

Tropiano also noted the importance of sourcing the best products to ensure a high-quality sushi experience.

“The salmon and tuna last week came from the Faroe Islands and Sri Lanka respectively,” Tropiano said. “Because of Chef Ezra’s abilities, those that are familiar with really good sushi benefit because it is right here and those who are experiencing it for the first time get to have excellent sushi.

Bertakis understands that not everyone in Hillsdale may be well-versed in seafood and sushi, but he encourages anyone who is curious to give it a try.

“Keep it simple, go with the things you’re comfortable with, and remember that anything can be cooked,” Bertakis said. “Start with something simple like a shrimp roll. From there, the sky’s the limit: take it slow and don’t force yourself to eat anything too raw if you’re not comfortable with that just because you think that’s what sushi is.”

Even though he keeps busy as a full-time farmer, business owner, and vice president of the Hillsdale Farmers Market, Bertakis finds that sushi blends his loves of fine cuisine and organic produce, providing another way to give back to the community.

“It’s great to keep a bit of sushi going because that’s my passion and it’s my artistic outlet,” he said. “Sushi is not a short-order thing, it takes time. But in the end you get a beautiful presentation of artwork on a plate, which is almost too beautiful to eat.”