The Hillsdale County fair is full of history, from businesses that have been in the family for six generations to visitors who have been coming for over 50 years. The food is a big part of that history; many of the vendors have been at this fair for decades and have great stories about how they got started.
One of the many Italian and Polish sausage stands that line the midway is owned by Richard Gazella, who has worked Hillsdale’s fair for the last 60 years. Gazella’s Grandfather, Frank, was born to Polish immigrants and began the business by selling foot-long hotdogs. Gazella started helping his grandfather over half a century ago when he was five years old.
Gazella lives in Carson City, Mich., drives a school bus in the winter, and takes his food to various fairs throughout the summer.
“A lot of fairs change over the years, but this one has not changed much,” he said. “Time kind of stands still here.”
Gazella says his family has sold food on the exact same spot at this fair for 40 years. His grandfather and his father were both in the business, and now his son, Shaun Gazella, operates another trailer nearby, making it more than four generations of Gazellas selling food at the Hillsdale County Fair.
And the Gazella sausages are certainly popular.
“We got hooked on these Italian sausages years and years ago, so we look for them whenever we visit a fair,” said Steve and Joyce Parrish, who came from Antwerp, Ohio to visit this fair for the first time.
Steve Parrish says his grandfather used to come to this fair from Paulding, Ohio, more than 57 miles away, by horse and buggy.
Many of the concessions stands are owned by Fiske Concessions, a company based in Florida. Scattered across the fair, Fiske stands sell french fries by the bucketful as well as lemonade, fried cheese curds, and other foods.
Carol Hubbell has been working at the fair for 30 years. She used to run games, but 10 years ago she began to work for Fiske’s along with her husband, Chris. This year, she works at one of Fiske’s lemonade stands. Hubbell says her favorite part of working at the fair is meeting all the people.
Toward the south end of the fairground stands Randy’s Bar-B-Que. Passing fairgoers can smell the ribs cooking in the smoker behind the trailer while speakers in front blast gospel country music. Randy Bahlau, the award-winning owner, says he’s been barbecuing all his life. Though born in Michigan, Bahlau first learned his craft from a grandfather in Tennessee when he was a small child. After honing his barbecuing techniques in Gatlinburg, Tenn., he created his own recipe and moved back to Michigan, where he now owns two restaurants: Randy’s Roadhouse and Randy’s Bar-B-Que.
Bahlau says he has brought his food to fairs for the past ten years. He wanted to give people an alternative to deep-fried food, he said, emphasizing that everything is smoked, the meat is lean, and no chemicals are added.
The meat may be lean, but that doesn’t take away from the flavor. He smokes the pulled pork for 18 hours, until it is deliciously tender. Bahlau’s sauce, personalized by secret ingredients, is mild, but flavorful.
Jackie Beer sells taffy and caramel corn at Beer’s and Jessop’s. She’s worked there ever since she married her husband, Robert Jessop Beer, 47 years ago. His family started the confection business in 1850. Nobody seems to remember how long they’ve been at this fair, but they’ve been here as far back as the books record. Jackie says her eight children make the taffy and corn at the fair and are at least the 6th generation in the business.
Mary Stalhood has been making elephant ears here for 30 years, reportedly the best on the fairground. Mary makes the dough from her own recipe every morning and fries the ears as they’re ordered. Her 13-year-old grandson, Caiden Bauer, has been helping her in her business for the last three years.
North of the Midway, Claire Mayhanagian sells caramel corn at May’s, a shortening of the family name. Though retired, Claire sometimes works for her son, who now owns the business. The Mayhanagian’s have owned the business since 1921, reaching across three generations.
Fair food offers something for everyone. Kristen Holmes, who visited on Sunday with her husband Rob and their kids, Zoey, Alyana, and Wyatt, said that she’s been coming since she was born, as have all her children. Among this family’s favorites are elephant ears, french fries, and deep-fried cheesecake bites.
Laura Davis has been coming to this fair since the 1970s, and her husband Bill since the ‘50s. Laura said her favorite foods are the chocolate milk, the caramel corn at the historical society, and the mincemeat pie at the 4-H building. She first came because her kids were in 4-H, but has continued to attend every year since.
“It gets in your blood, and you just want to come every day,” she said.
Laura Davis says she came every day the fair was open last year, and plans to do so again this year.
Some of the more unusual foods at this fair include fried candy bars, fried Oreos, fried cheesecake, fried cookie dough, and even fried butter.
Junior Michael Kreuz bought a sample plate that included most of the above items.
“I like to live life adventurously,” he said.
Whether fairgoers are seeking adventure or looking for the same good-old-fashioned fair food they’ve been eating for decades, the Hillsdale County Fair has something for them. Ride the rides, visit the exhibits, and try some of the great food. You’ll be part of a tradition of fun and celebration that goes back almost as far as Hillsdale College itself.
